Questions to Ask When Buying an RV
For buyers looking at a motorhome, new or used, from a dealer or a private seller. Covers water intrusion and roof sealant, tire age, slide outs, propane and electrical systems, weight limits, generator hours, service access, and what ownership costs between trips.
The questions
Open any question for the note
How long have you owned it, how many nights a year did you use it, and why are you selling?
Why ask it
An RV that sat unused for years is often in worse shape than one used regularly, because seals dry out, tires age, and rodents move in while nothing is being maintained. Ask where it was parked between trips and how often it was run, since those two answers explain most of what an inspection will find.
What chassis and engine is it built on, and who services the chassis as opposed to the coach?
Why ask it
A motorhome is two vehicles in one: a chassis with an engine, brakes, and steering, and a house built on top with its own appliances and systems. They are serviced by different businesses with different parts supply, and a seller who cannot tell you which chassis it sits on has probably not had much done to it.
What is the mileage, how many hours are on the generator, and when was each last serviced?
Why ask it
Generator hours are the better indicator of how hard the coach has worked, and a generator that has sat unused for years often needs carburettor work regardless of low hours. Ask for oil change records for both engine and generator, since generators are routinely neglected.
Has water ever got in, and where? What is the roof made of, and when was the sealant last inspected and renewed?
Why ask it
Water intrusion is what destroys these vehicles, and the sealant along the roof edges, vents, and skylights needs checking on a schedule rather than when a stain appears. Look for lumpy or patched sealant, staining at the ceiling edges, and a musty smell in cabinets, and treat a confident denial without receipts as unverified.
Can I bring an independent RV inspector with a moisture meter before I commit?
Why ask it
A moisture meter reads what your eyes cannot, and a full inspection covers the chassis, roof, propane, appliances, and slides in a way a walkthrough does not. Refusal, or a deal deadline too short to arrange it, tells you what the seller expects an inspector to find.
Are there any soft spots in the floor or walls, or any delamination in the sidewalls?
Why ask it
Delamination shows as ripples or bubbles in the exterior wall and means water has got between the layers, which is a major structural repair rather than a cosmetic one. Sight along each side wall from the front corner in daylight, and press the floor around the shower, toilet, and entry step.
How old are the tires, and when were they last replaced?
Why ask it
The four digit code on each sidewall gives week and year of manufacture, and RV tires usually age out long before they wear out because the vehicle sits still and heavy. A full set is a significant bill, so date codes should be part of your price conversation rather than a later discovery.
Do all the slide outs operate fully, are the seals intact, and has any slide mechanism ever been repaired?
Why ask it
Ask to run each slide in and out twice while you watch the seals and listen to the motor, since a hesitant or noisy slide is expensive and a leaking slide seal puts water into the floor. Check the roof of the slide for pooled debris and the ceiling above it for staining.
Does the refrigerator cool on both propane and electricity, and how old are the furnace, water heater, and roof air conditioners?
Why ask it
An absorption refrigerator can work on one power source and not the other, and it needs hours to prove itself, so ask for it to be running before you arrive. Roof air units and water heaters have finite lives and their ages set your next few years of expenses.
When was the propane system last leak tested, and what is the certification date on the tank or cylinders?
Why ask it
Propane cylinders need periodic recertification before anyone will refill them, and a fixed tank needs its own inspection, so a date here is a checkable fact rather than an opinion. Ask when the regulator was last replaced too, because a failing regulator affects every appliance at once.
What house batteries does it have, how old are they, and how does the electrical system charge and invert?
Why ask it
Batteries are the most commonly worn out item on a used RV and the easiest for a seller to describe as fine while plugged into shore power. Ask whether the coach is 30 or 50 amp, whether there is an inverter and a converter, and whether solar was added, and by whom.
What are the fresh, grey, and black tank capacities, do the valves seal, and has the black tank been maintained?
Why ask it
A black tank valve that does not seal or a tank sensor that misreads makes every trip unpleasant, and a tank left full in storage is a repair rather than a cleaning job. Ask to see the tanks filled and dumped if that is at all possible, and check under the vehicle for staining around the valves.
What is the gross vehicle weight rating, and what does it weigh now with tanks and gear aboard?
Why ask it
Many motorhomes run out of payload before they run out of space, so the difference between the rating and the actual weight decides what you can carry, including water, propane, passengers, and anything towed. A seller who has weighed it at a public scale is unusual and worth listening to.
How has it been stored, and was it winterized properly each year?
Why ask it
Indoor or covered storage preserves roof sealant, decals, and tires; open storage in sun does the opposite. Ask what winterizing involved, because a system that froze once can leave cracked fittings and a water pump that only reveals itself when you fill the tanks in spring.
Is the title clean and in your name, is there a lien, and does this vehicle need a special licence or weight class where I live?
Why ask it
Length and weight rules for driving licences vary by jurisdiction, and larger motorhomes can cross a threshold that requires an additional endorsement. An unreleased lien or a title in a business or family member's name has to be sorted before money moves.
What warranty remains on the coach and on the chassis, and can any extended service contract transfer to me?
Why ask it
Coach and chassis warranties run on separate terms and can expire at different points, and extended contracts often either do not transfer or charge a fee to do so. Ask for the paperwork rather than the salesperson's summary, and check what the contract excludes, since roof and seal work is commonly excluded.
Are there any open recalls, on the chassis and on the coach separately?
Why ask it
Two manufacturers means two recall lists, and buyers routinely check one and forget the other. The chassis maker and the coach builder each hold records against your serial or VIN, and recall work is usually carried out at no charge.
Who will actually service this locally, and what is the current wait for a service bay?
Why ask it
Service capacity is the practical constraint on owning an RV, and waits of weeks or longer are common in season, particularly for a unit a dealer did not sell. Ring two local shops before you buy and ask what they will and will not work on, and find out whether mobile technicians operate in your area.
What does it cost to own between trips: insurance, storage, and what fuel economy do you actually get?
Why ask it
Storage and insurance run whether or not you travel, and real world fuel economy on a motorhome is usually well below what an owner remembers. Get your own insurance quote on the specific unit, since some insurers rate full time living in an RV differently from recreational use.
Can I drive it, including at highway speed, and could I stay in it overnight before we close?
Why ask it
A short loop at low speed hides steering wander, brake pull, and driveline vibration, all of which appear above fifty. A night in it with the systems running is the only way to find the drips, the noisy pump, the failing fan, and whether you can actually live in the layout.
Buying a Motorhome
Practical guidance for the conversation itself
Decide What You Are Buying Before You Shop
Match the size to where you want to go
Many state and national park campgrounds cap vehicle length, and older sites cap it low. If your plan involves those parks rather than commercial resorts, check their limits first, because that single number rules out whole categories of motorhome and is easier to accept before you fall for one.
Work out the weight you need to carry
Add up passengers, water, propane, tools, bikes, and anything you would tow, then compare that against the difference between the vehicle's rating and its actual empty weight. Water alone is heavy, and a coach with a modest payload allowance forces you to travel with the tanks nearly dry.
Rent the type before you buy it
A weekend in the class of vehicle you are considering teaches you more about layout, driving, and setup than any amount of walking through showrooms. It also reveals how you actually camp, which decides whether you need a generator, solar, or big tanks.
Line up insurance and storage first
Get a quote on the specific unit and confirm where it will live when you are not using it, including the monthly cost and access hours. Many neighbourhoods and associations prohibit parking one at home, and finding that out after purchase is an expensive surprise.
Inspecting a Used Coach
Get on the roof
The roof is where the future of the vehicle is decided. Look at the sealant along every edge, vent, antenna, skylight, and air conditioner. Cracked, shrunken, or repeatedly patched sealant means water has had a route in, and soft decking underfoot means it took it.
Follow water everywhere it might have gone
Check ceiling corners, the tops of window frames, under and behind the bed, inside every cabinet and wardrobe, around the shower, and at the base of walls. Use a moisture meter if you have one and your nose if you do not. Fresh paint or new panelling in one small area is a question, not a reassurance.
Run every system at the same time
Fill the fresh tank and run the pump, heat water, light the furnace, start both air conditioners, run the generator under load, chill the refrigerator on gas and then on electric, extend and retract each slide, and roll the awning out and back. Systems fail in combination more often than alone.
Drive it properly
Cold start it, then take it to highway speed on an open road. Watch for wander, a pull under braking, vibration through the floor, and how the transmission behaves on a climb. Reverse and turn tightly in a quiet area, and note how much of the mirrors and cameras you can actually use.
Where Buyers Get Caught
Reading low mileage as low wear
On an RV, standing still is a form of wear. Seals dry, tires age out, batteries sulphate, generators gum up, and rodents chew wiring. A well used and well maintained coach is often the safer purchase.
Buying at a show under deadline pressure
Show pricing that expires at the end of the weekend exists to prevent inspections. Any deal worth having survives an independent inspector and a night's thought.
Ignoring service access
Warranty work means nothing if the nearest shop is booked for two months and will only prioritise its own customers. Ask about local service capacity before you commit, especially for an orphan or discontinued brand.
Underestimating the cost of standing still
Insurance, storage, registration, tires that age out, and batteries that die on a schedule all cost money in years when you barely travel. Work out that annual figure and compare it honestly against renting or hotels for the trips you actually take.
Trusting the walkthrough
A dealer walkthrough is a demonstration, not a test. Insist on operating the systems yourself, and on doing it long enough for the refrigerator, water heater, and air conditioning to prove they work rather than merely start.
Documents and Records to Ask For
- Title in the seller's name, with any lien release in writing
- Chassis and generator service records, with dates and hours
- Roof sealant and any water damage repair invoices
- Tire purchase receipts, plus photographs of the date codes on all tires
- Propane cylinder or tank certification dates and the last leak test
- Battery purchase dates, and documentation for any solar or inverter installation
- Weight ticket from a public scale, and the vehicle's rating plate
- Coach and chassis warranty documents, and the transfer terms of any service contract
- Recall checks against both the chassis VIN and the coach serial number
- Slide out, appliance, and air conditioning repair history
- An independent inspection report, including moisture readings