Questions to Ask When Buying an RV
These 61 questions to ask when buying a used RV, or a new one off a dealer's lot, are written for motorhome buyers first. If you are looking at a trailer or fifth wheel, skip the engine questions in Chassis and drive and keep the ones on tires, brakes, and weight; the rest apply to anything with a roof and a water system. They run in the order a purchase goes: History to settle by phone before you travel, then Roof and body, Chassis and drive, and House systems for the viewing itself, and At a dealer and Price and paperwork once the coach has passed. A private seller can answer the first group from memory, and at a dealership the same questions go to whatever records came in with the trade.
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The questions
Each question, and why to ask it
History
How long have you owned it, how many nights a year did you use it, and why are you selling?
Why ask it
An RV that sat for years is often in worse shape than one used every month, because seals dry out, tires age, and rodents move in while nobody is looking. Ask where it was parked between trips and how often the engine and generator were run. The reason for selling is worth hearing twice, once on the phone and once in person, to see whether it stays the same.
Has it ever leaked, and where did the water get in?
Why ask it
Water does more damage to an RV than miles do, and it works out of sight inside the walls and floor. An owner who says 'the front cap seam, three summers ago, and here is the invoice' is easier to believe than one who says never about a coach that has spent ten winters outside. Write down each place they name and start the viewing there.
Can you send me the VIN and a photo of the weight label before I make the trip?
Why ask it
The VIN lets you buy your own history report and look up recalls, and on a motorhome it belongs to the chassis, so the report mostly describes the vehicle underneath. Damage to the house, such as a leak or a torn awning, is rarely reported anywhere. The weight label, usually near the driver's seat or inside a cabinet door, gives you the ratings before a salesperson's summary does.
What service records do you have, and can I photograph them?
Why ask it
Dated invoices let you check the story: the mileage and generator hours should climb steadily, and a roof inspection should turn up about once a year. A stretch of years with no paper at all usually means the coach sat. Photos of the folder give your inspector something to read before the appointment.
What has broken or been replaced while you owned it, and what is not working today?
Why ask it
Every RV with a few seasons behind it has a repair list, so an owner who can think of nothing is either very new to it or not saying. Replaced parts are good news when there is a receipt, because a new water heater or refrigerator cooling unit resets the age of that item. Finish by asking what they would fix next if they were keeping it.
How has it been stored, and was it winterized properly each year?
Why ask it
Indoor or covered storage is kind to roof sealant, decals, and tires, and years parked in open sun are not. Ask what winterizing involved, because a system that froze once can leave cracked fittings and a water pump that only gives itself away when you fill the tanks in spring. Where it never freezes, ask how the sun was kept off the roof and tires instead.
Are you the first owner, and if not, what came with it from the owners before you?
Why ask it
Paperwork tends to stop at each change of hands, so a third owner may only be able to vouch for the last two years of a twelve year old coach. Ask for whatever was passed on: the original build sheet, the appliance manuals, and the older receipts. At a dealer, ask whether the trade-in arrived with a folder and whether you can read it.
Has anyone lived in it full time, or has it ever been rented out?
Why ask it
A year of full-time living wears the furniture, plumbing, and appliances far more than a year of weekend trips does, and the odometer shows none of it. Rental units are usually serviced on schedule but driven by people with no stake in them. Neither answer rules a coach out, but each one changes where you look hardest.
Has it ever been in a collision, clipped something overhead, or had a tire fail on the road?
Why ask it
The accidents particular to an RV are low branches, fuel station canopies, and blowouts, and a blowout can tear out the wheel well along with the wiring and plumbing that run through it. Ask for the repair invoice and who did the work. Then look at the front cap, the roof edges, and inside each wheel arch for filler, fresh sealant, or mismatched panels.
Have you ever had mice, ants, or wasps in it, and what did you do to keep them out while it was parked?
Why ask it
Whatever the answer, check with a flashlight: droppings, shredded insulation, or a nest in an air filter are easy to find in the storage bays and around the engine and generator. The damage that matters is chewed wiring, which causes faults that come and go. Pull out the lowest kitchen drawer and look at the floor behind it.
Has anyone smoked in it, and did pets travel in it?
Why ask it
There is a lot of fabric, carpet, and ducting in a small closed space, and smells that have soaked in tend to return on the first warm day. Lift the cushions, open the cabinets above the cab, and run the furnace for a few minutes, since the ducts carry whatever settled in them. Heavy air freshener on viewing day is worth a second question.
Roof and body
What is the roof made of, and when was the sealant last inspected and renewed?
Why ask it
Rubber membrane, fiberglass, and aluminum roofs each age in their own way, but all of them rely on the sealant along the edges, vents, and skylights, which needs looking at on a schedule and not when a stain appears. Look for lumpy or layered patches and for staining at the ceiling edges below them. A confident answer with no receipt behind it is still unverified.
Can I go up on the roof, and if it is not built to be walked on, will you photograph every seam for me?
Why ask it
Not every roof takes a person's weight, and a factory ladder is the usual hint that this one does, so ask before you climb. A dealer may refuse on liability grounds, in which case ask for a stepladder at the side or for their technician's photos taken that day. What you want to see is every place something passes through the roof, and the front and rear seams where the end caps join it.
Are there any soft spots in the floor or walls, or any delamination in the sidewalls?
Why ask it
Delamination shows as ripples or bubbles in the exterior wall and means water has got between the layers, which is a structural repair and an expensive one. Sight along each side wall from the front corner in daylight, and press the floor around the shower, toilet, and entry step.
Do all the slides run in and out smoothly, and has a slide motor, track, or seal ever been repaired?
Why ask it
Ask to run each slide in and out twice while you watch the seals and listen to the motor, since a hesitant or noisy slide is expensive and a leaking slide seal puts water into the floor. Check the roof of the slide for pooled debris and the ceiling above it for staining.
Do the windows, roof vents, and skylights open, latch, and seal, and is there fog between any double panes?
Why ask it
Fog or streaks trapped between two panes mean the seal has failed, and the cure is to take the window out, which is a shop job. Cracked vent lids and crazed skylights are cheap parts that leak until someone replaces them. Run a hand along the wall below each window for ripples or softness.
Will you roll the awning all the way out and back while I watch?
Why ask it
Fully extended, the fabric shows its mildew, sun rot, and edge tears, and the arms show whether wind has ever bent them. On a powered awning, listen to the motor and ask whether the wind sensor still brings it in. Look at the rail where the awning meets the wall too, since those screws go through the skin of the coach.
What do the storage bays look like inside, and do the bay doors seal and latch?
Why ask it
Bays sit low and collect whatever gets past their door seals, so look for rust on the floor, tide marks on the walls, and swollen plywood. Tired gas struts and sticking latches are small fixes. A bay that smells damp when it is first opened has held water at some point, so ask where it came from.
Has any exterior work been done, such as repainting, new decals, a resealed window, or a replaced panel?
Why ask it
Repair in one spot is a map of where the trouble was. A scraped corner put right by a body shop, with an invoice, is ordinary on a vehicle this size. Sealant in a different color around a single window, with no explanation, is the kind to keep asking about until you get one.
Chassis and drive
What chassis and engine is it built on, and who services the chassis as opposed to the coach?
Why ask it
A motorhome is two vehicles in one: a chassis with an engine, brakes, and steering, and a house built on top with its own appliances and systems. They are serviced by different businesses with different parts supply, and a seller who cannot tell you which chassis it sits on has probably not had much done to it.
What is the mileage, how many hours are on the generator, and when was each last serviced?
Why ask it
Miles describe the chassis and generator hours describe the camping, so ask for both and for the oil change records behind each. Very low hours on an old generator are not good news: one that sat for years often needs fuel system work before it will carry a load. Ask when it last ran for an hour with the air conditioners on.
Is it gas or diesel, and which major service comes due next?
Why ask it
Diesel coaches generally hold more fluid and more filters, and many larger ones add exhaust fluid and air brakes, each on its own schedule. A gas chassis is usually simpler to service. Whichever it is, ask a shop that works on that chassis what the next big interval costs before you agree a price.
What are the date codes on the tires, and were they all replaced at the same time?
Why ask it
The four digit code on each sidewall gives the week and year of manufacture, and RV tires usually age out long before they wear out because the vehicle sits still and heavy. Read the inner rear duals too, since they are the ones that get skipped. A full set is a large bill, so the dates belong in the price conversation.
When were the brakes, shocks, and steering parts last inspected, and what was replaced?
Why ask it
A motorhome runs close to its weight limit all the time, which is hard on the front end, and worn shocks or bushings show up as wander and sway on the highway. Brake fluid ages by the calendar, whatever the odometer says. An invoice from a chassis or truck shop is the answer you are hoping for, since many RV dealers work mainly on the house side.
Are there any leaks under the engine, transmission, or generator, and has it ever overheated?
Why ask it
Look at the ground where it is normally parked before it is moved for you. Long grades with a full load are what test a cooling system, so ask where it has been driven and whether the temperature gauge ever climbed. Fresh drips, or an engine bay cleaned just before a sale, are both things to point out to a mechanic.
What is the gross vehicle weight rating, and what does it weigh now with tanks and gear aboard?
Why ask it
Many motorhomes run out of payload before they run out of space, so the difference between the rating and the actual weight decides what you can carry, including water, propane, passengers, and anything towed. A seller who has weighed it at a public scale is unusual and worth listening to.
What is it rated to tow, what is the hitch receiver rated for, and has it pulled a car or trailer?
Why ask it
The towing figure that counts is the combined rating minus what the coach weighs loaded, and the receiver often carries a lower limit of its own. Regular towing adds heat and wear to the transmission, so it belongs in the service history. Ask whether the tow bar, wiring, and any braking system for the towed car are part of the sale.
What are the exact height, length, and width, including the air conditioners, ladder, and mirrors?
Why ask it
Height decides which bridges, fuel canopies, and storage doors you can use, and length decides which campsites will take you. Brochure figures often leave out what is bolted on, so measure it or ask to see it measured. Then write the height somewhere the driver can see it.
Will I need a different license or endorsement to drive something this heavy or this long?
Why ask it
This one goes to the licensing office where you live, not to the seller, who can only say what applied to them. Some states, provinces, and countries set a weight or length above which an ordinary car license stops being enough, and air brakes can carry a rule of their own. Take the figures from the weight label with you when you ask.
Do the leveling jacks extend, hold, and retract fully, and where is the manual override?
Why ask it
Jacks that will not come up can keep you from leaving a campsite, so run them through a full cycle and look at each one for leaking fluid or a bent foot. Have the seller show you the override procedure and not just describe it. A warning that sounds with the jacks stowed usually points to a sensor or a switch.
Do the dash air conditioning, backup camera, wipers, and every exterior light work?
Why ask it
Cab equipment gets forgotten once the house systems start taking up the viewing. On a vehicle this long the rear camera is how you reverse, and a dead one can mean a fault in a cable that runs the whole length of the coach. Walk around with the lights on, because a cracked clearance lens high on the cap lets water in as well as failing to light.
Can I drive it myself from a cold start, and take it up to highway speed?
Why ask it
A short loop at low speed hides steering wander, brake pull, and driveline vibration, and those only show up at highway speed. Ask that it is not started before you arrive, so you hear how it fires and see what comes out of the exhaust. Check first whose insurance covers you at the wheel, since that depends on the policy and on where you are.
House systems
Does the refrigerator get cold on both propane and electricity, and can it be switched on the day before I come?
Why ask it
An absorption refrigerator can work on one power source and fail on the other, and it needs hours to prove itself, so a warm one switched on as you arrive tells you nothing. Bring a thermometer and leave it inside while you look at everything else. If it is a compressor model that runs from the batteries, ask what it draws overnight away from hookups.
When was the propane system last leak tested, and what is the certification date on the tank or cylinders?
Why ask it
A leak test done by a propane shop comes with a dated slip, which turns this from an opinion into something you can check. Portable cylinders are stamped with a date and in many places must be requalified after a set number of years before anyone will fill them; a permanently mounted tank may follow different rules, so ask a propane dealer how it works where you live. Ask when the regulator was last replaced as well, because a failing one affects every appliance at once.
What kind of house batteries does it have, how old are they, and is it a 30 or 50 amp coach?
Why ask it
House batteries are among the first things to wear out on a used RV, and the easiest for a seller to call fine while the coach is plugged in, so look for a date sticker or a receipt. The 30 or 50 amp answer tells you which campground pedestals you can use and roughly how much you can run at once. Ask whether there is an inverter as well as a converter, and who installed any solar.
Will you unplug it from shore power so I can see what still runs, and then start the generator under load?
Why ask it
Plugged in, a coach with dead batteries behaves perfectly. Unplugged, watch whether the lights dim, the water pump slows, and the voltage on the monitor panel sags within a few minutes. Then have the generator carry both air conditioners, which shows whether it and the transfer switch can do the job they are there for.
How big are the fresh, gray, and black tanks, do the dump valves close fully, and do the tank gauges read correctly?
Why ask it
A dump valve that weeps or a gauge stuck at two thirds full makes every trip a little worse, and a black tank left full through a long storage can need far more than a rinse. Ask to see the tanks filled and dumped if a dump point is within reach. Then look under the coach for staining around the valves.
Does the water pump hold pressure with every tap closed, and does the water heater work on each of its heat sources?
Why ask it
A pump that kicks in for a second every so often with nothing running is telling you water is escaping somewhere. Open the cabinet under each sink and the outside shower hatch and feel the fittings. Many water heaters run on propane and on electricity, so test both, and ask when the tank was last flushed.
Will both roof air conditioners and the furnace run a full cycle while I check every vent?
Why ask it
Give each one twenty minutes, because an air conditioner can move air without cooling it and a furnace can light and then shut down. Hold a hand at every vent, front to back. Weak flow at the far end often means a crushed or disconnected duct, which is fixable and fair to raise when you talk about price.
Are the smoke, carbon monoxide, and propane detectors in date, and when was the fire extinguisher last checked?
Why ask it
These detectors carry a replace-by date on the case, and the propane alarm is the small unit near the floor that many owners forget is there. Press each test button. They cost little to replace, so what an expired set really tells you is how closely the rest of the coach was looked after.
What has been added or changed since it left the factory, and who did the work?
Why ask it
Solar panels, inverters, lithium batteries, and satellite gear add real value when a professional installed them and left a diagram. Ask to see where each new circuit is fused and how the cables pass through the roof or floor. Every hole drilled for an accessory is also a new way in for water, so add them to the inspector's list.
Do the entry step, door locks, beds, dinette, and anything motorized inside work when I operate them?
Why ask it
Fold out every bed and convert the dinette yourself, with the slides in as well as out, because some floor plans block the bathroom or the refrigerator when closed up for travel. A powered step that fails to retract can be torn off on a curb. Try each key in each lock, including the bay doors.
Could I spend a night in it, or at least a few hours with everything running, before we close?
Why ask it
A night aboard with the systems on is how you find the slow drip, the pump that wakes you, and the fan that rattles. It also tells you whether the bed, the shower, and the kitchen suit the people who will use them. If a night is too much to ask, a long afternoon with the refrigerator already cold covers most of it.
At a dealer
How did this unit come to you: a trade-in, consignment, an auction, or a rental fleet?
Why ask it
The source decides how much history exists. On a consignment the owner usually still holds the title and can often be reached with questions, while an auction unit may have arrived with nothing but its keys. Ask to see whatever paperwork came with it.
What did your shop inspect and repair before this used RV went on the lot, and can I have the work order?
Why ask it
'We went through it' is a phrase, and a reconditioning work order is a document with line items. Read it for the roof inspection, a propane leak test, and the age of the batteries and tires. Ask what the technicians found and the dealership chose not to fix, because that list exists too.
When was this one built, and how long has it been on your lot?
Why ask it
Model year and build date can be more than a year apart, and a unit that sat outside through a winter has tires, batteries, and roof sealant that aged with nobody using them. Ask when the factory warranty starts counting, since that depends on the maker's terms. Stock that has been around a long time is also where a dealer tends to have the most room on price.
On a new unit, what does the pre-delivery inspection cover, and can I go through it with my own checklist?
Why ask it
New RVs are assembled largely by hand and commonly arrive with a list of small faults, which are easiest to get fixed before you have paid. Ask for the dealer's checklist in advance and add your own water test and slide test. Agree in writing that anything found is repaired before you take delivery, or listed on a signed due bill with a date.
What is the out-the-door price with every fee listed separately, in writing?
Why ask it
Preparation, documentation, and freight or delivery charges can add a good deal to the sticker, and they vary from one dealer to the next. Ask which are set by the state and which are the dealer's own. Sales tax and registration depend on where you will register the RV, so ask how that is handled if you live across a state line.
What warranty remains on the coach and on the chassis, and can any extended service contract transfer to me?
Why ask it
Coach and chassis warranties run on separate terms and can expire at different points, and extended contracts often either do not transfer or charge a fee to do so. Ask for the paperwork itself, and check what the contract excludes, since roof and seal work is commonly excluded.
If a major system fails in the first month, what will you do, and will you write that into the contract?
Why ask it
Many used units are sold as is, and what that phrase allows differs by state or province, so ask how it works where the dealer is. A short written promise covering the roof, refrigerator, and drivetrain is a reasonable request on a used coach. A spoken assurance from a salesperson is only worth what you can show later.
If I use your financing, what are the rate, the term, and the total of all payments?
Why ask it
RV loans are often written over long terms, which makes the monthly figure look small while the total grows. Ask for the full schedule and compare it with a quote from your own bank or credit union, obtained before the visit. Ask too whether the price changes if you pay another way, and what each add-on offered in the finance office costs by itself.
How long is the wait for your service department right now, and where do I take it for warranty work when I am far from here?
Why ask it
Waits of several weeks are common in camping season, and some dealers put the units they sold at the front of the line. Ask whether the maker lets other dealers or mobile technicians do warranty repairs, and how that gets paid. Before you sign, call an independent shop near home and ask what they will and will not work on.
Price and paperwork
Can I bring an independent RV inspector with a moisture meter before I commit?
Why ask it
A moisture meter reads what your eyes cannot, and a full inspection covers the chassis, roof, propane, appliances, and slides in a way a walkthrough does not. A seller who refuses, or who sets a deadline too short to book one, is giving you a reason to slow down.
How did you arrive at the asking price, and what have similar units sold for near here?
Why ask it
Listing prices are hopes, so look for sold figures where you can find them and for a price guide that covers RVs in your country. Year, floor plan, and condition move the number more than the options list does. A seller who priced it from one optimistic listing usually knows it.
Given what the inspection found, will you repair it before the sale or take the cost off the price?
Why ask it
Bring a written estimate from a shop, because a figure on letterhead is harder to wave away than your guess. A price reduction lets you choose who does the work and watch it done. If the seller repairs it instead, ask for the invoice and have the inspector look again.
Is the title clean and in your name, and is there a loan or lien still on it?
Why ask it
An unreleased lien, or a title in the name of a business or a relative, has to be sorted out before any money moves. Ask to see the title itself and compare its VIN with the plate on the chassis. How a salvage or rebuilt title is marked differs from place to place, so ask the licensing office what the wording on this one means.
Are there any open recalls, on the chassis and on the coach separately?
Why ask it
Two manufacturers means two recall lists, and buyers routinely check one and forget the other. The chassis maker and the coach builder each hold records against your serial or VIN, and recall work is usually carried out at no charge.
What do you pay a year for insurance and storage, and what fuel economy do you really get?
Why ask it
Storage and insurance run whether or not you travel, and real world fuel economy on a motorhome is usually well below what an owner remembers. Treat the seller's figures as a starting point and get your own insurance quote on this exact unit, since some insurers rate full-time living differently from recreational use.
What is included in the sale: hoses, power cord and adapters, sewer kit, covers, manuals, and spare keys?
Why ask it
Fitting out an empty RV with the basics is a shopping trip of its own, and sellers often keep the gear for their next one. The appliance manuals and the wiring and plumbing diagrams are harder to replace than the hoses. Whatever is promised, list it on the bill of sale.
How will the money and the title change hands: deposit, lien payoff, bill of sale, and transfer?
Why ask it
Put in writing whether a deposit comes back if the inspection goes badly. Where a lender is still on the title, paying at the seller's bank lets the lien be released while you are both in the room. Transfer steps, taxes, and temporary plates differ by state and country, so ask the licensing office what it needs before the day.
At handover, will you walk me through every system, and may I record it?
Why ask it
Dumping the tanks, winterizing, the manual slide override, the breaker and fuse panels, and the generator are all easier shown than read. A phone video of the previous owner doing each one is the manual you will actually use. Plan the first trip close to home, where a forgotten step costs an evening and not a whole vacation.
Buying a Motorhome
Practical guidance for the conversation itself
Decide What You Are Buying Before You Shop
Match the size to where you want to go
Many state and national park campgrounds cap vehicle length, and older sites cap it low. If your plan involves those parks rather than commercial resorts, check their limits first, because that single number rules out whole categories of motorhome and is easier to accept before you fall for one.
Work out the weight you need to carry
Add up passengers, water, propane, tools, bikes, and anything you would tow, then compare that against the difference between the vehicle's rating and its actual empty weight. Water alone is heavy, and a coach with a modest payload allowance forces you to travel with the tanks nearly dry.
Rent the type before you buy it
A weekend in the class of vehicle you are considering teaches you more about layout, driving, and setup than any amount of walking through showrooms. It also reveals how you actually camp, which decides whether you need a generator, solar, or big tanks.
Line up insurance and storage first
Get a quote on the specific unit and confirm where it will live when you are not using it, including the monthly cost and access hours. Many neighborhoods and homeowner associations restrict parking one at home, and finding that out after the purchase is an expensive surprise.
Inspecting a Used RV
Get on the roof
Climb up if the roof is built to be walked on, and work from a ladder at the side if it is not. Look at the sealant along every edge, vent, antenna, skylight, and air conditioner. Cracked, shrunken, or repeatedly patched sealant means water has had a route in, and soft decking underfoot means it took it.
Follow water everywhere it might have gone
Check ceiling corners, the tops of window frames, under and behind the bed, inside every cabinet and wardrobe, around the shower, and at the base of walls. Use a moisture meter if you have one and your nose if you do not. Fresh paint or new paneling in one small area is a question, not a reassurance.
Run every system at the same time
Fill the fresh tank and run the pump, heat water, light the furnace, start both air conditioners, run the generator under load, chill the refrigerator on gas and then on electric, extend and retract each slide, and roll the awning out and back. Running them together is what shows whether the batteries, the generator, and the wiring can carry a real evening's load.
Drive it properly
Cold start it, then take it to highway speed on an open road. Watch for wander, a pull under braking, vibration through the floor, and how the transmission behaves on a climb. Reverse and turn tightly in a quiet area, and note how much of the mirrors and cameras you can actually use.
Where Buyers Get Caught
Reading low mileage as low wear
On an RV, standing still is a form of wear. Seals dry, tires age out, batteries sulfate, generators gum up, and rodents chew wiring. A well used and well maintained coach is often the safer purchase.
Buying at a show under deadline pressure
Show pricing that expires at the end of the weekend leaves no time for an inspection, and that is the trouble with it. Any deal worth having survives an independent inspector and a night's thought.
Ignoring service access
Warranty work means nothing if the nearest shop is booked for two months and puts its own customers first. Ask about local service capacity before you commit, especially for an orphan or discontinued brand.
Underestimating the cost of standing still
Insurance, storage, registration, tires that age out, and batteries that die on a schedule all cost money in years when you barely travel. Work out that annual figure and compare it honestly against renting or hotels for the trips you actually take.
Trusting the walkthrough
A dealer walkthrough is a demonstration, not a test. Insist on operating the systems yourself, and on doing it long enough for the refrigerator, water heater, and air conditioning to prove they work rather than merely start.
Documents and Records to Ask For
- Title in the seller's name, with any lien release in writing
- Chassis and generator service records, with dates and hours
- Roof sealant and any water damage repair invoices
- Tire purchase receipts, plus photographs of the date codes on all tires
- Propane cylinder or tank certification dates and the last leak test
- Battery purchase dates, and documentation for any solar or inverter installation
- Weight ticket from a public scale, and the vehicle's rating plate
- Coach and chassis warranty documents, and the transfer terms of any service contract
- Recall checks against both the chassis VIN and the coach serial number
- Slide out, appliance, and air conditioning repair history
- An independent inspection report, including moisture readings